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In recent years we’ve seen men walk down the runway in dashing dresses and sensual skirts, donning the feminine garb to boldly dismantle the gender-dressing dogmas. However, for Spring SS21 Martine Rose chooses a different, more subtle way to subvert traditional perceptions of manhood.

Inspired by the San Francisco gay scene in the 1970s, she opts for hypermasculine signifiers like businessman suits, football jerseys, tracksuits and karate kimonos tightened, cinched or shrunken to show off the body in all the right places. Kinky undergarments further pervert these traditional codes into something new. There are womenswear proposals too, such as cardigans with purposeful button-down boob gaps and extra tiny miniskirts, but here again Rose flips a fashion norm on its head by letting menswear take the spotlight. Twisted through her hands, no longer do we see these archetypal garments as overt expressions of manhood, but wardrobe staples building a more nuanced understanding of sexuality and identity. The best part? The collection fully achieves this gender-bending feat with the wearability we so desire.

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